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Black pudding made from fresh blood may not be something you think is worth fighting for, but it is part of the battle to bring Britain's forgotten food back into supermarkets and our homes.
It's not your average culinary dilemma, but then again it's not the average ingredient. How do you transport fresh pigs' blood quickly enough to make black pudding before the blood coagulates?
Nowadays a dried blood-powder mix is used, but it doesn't taste anywhere near as good as using fresh blood, say connoisseurs of the food.
It's is just one of the challenges facing a growing movement of people trying to revive the country's forgotten foods and, most significantly, get them back into supermarkets.
In recent years there has been a growing appreciation of Britain's distinctive regional foods. Many people have embraced farm shops, farmers' markets and specialist shops.
There's also been growing protection, like the EU's Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). But while it protects how the foods are made and allows producers to promote them as the real deal, it doesn't get them back on the supermarket shelves.
And that is crucial when reviving anything because it is where most people buy their food, say campaigners.
"However much foodies stamp their feet and say they only want us to use local shops, they have to accept that supermarkets are here to stay," says food writer Matthew Fort.
"They have a big part to play in bringing back good British food that is threatened. The tastes and textures of these products are exquisite, as good as anything from around the world. Real historic and social significance are also tied up in them."
A growing movement is starting to tackle the problem. The Forgotten Food Scheme has been launched by Booths, a supermarket chain in north-west England, and Slow Food UK, an organisation that aims to reconnect people with good food.
"It's about getting these foods back into mass circulation," says Chris Dee, trading director of Booths, which has 28 supermarkets. "It's the right place for them, not just in some obscure little deli that most people are too intimidated to go into."
Foods are threatened for a number of reasons. The skills needed to produce them are dying out; fashions change; also, modern food production and laws make some inconvenient and expensive to make.
The scheme is aiming to revive eight foods - including meats, cheeses and fruits, in its first year and get them on sale in large quantities in supermarkets. It hopes by committing to stocking the food, suppliers will then have the security to possibly expand and supply other supermarkets. It has also set itself the challenge of using only local producers.
The double-curd Lancashire cheese it has picked is unique in the UK because of the way it is made. Other products have posed significant challenges.
"It's a tall order with products like the fresh-blood black pudding; we are basically starting with something that is almost illegal to make now," says Dee.
Traditionally, butchers would have used fresh blood in all black pudding, but now slaughtering is done separately in large abattoirs. It causes logistical problems as fresh blood deteriorates quickly, so needs to be used quickly. Also, strict laws now cover its use and a special licence is needed even to transport it. Most producers now use a dried blood-powder mix.
In the case of the traditional-cure York ham, it has meant not only creating a sustainable source of rare breed pigs, but persuading the person with the skills to create the traditional cure to come out of retirement.
"This scheme isn't just a declaration or about putting a logo on packaging," says Catherine Gazzoli, chief executive of Slow Food UK. "It's a lot of work and you need a lot of patience."
Slow Food has been listing and supporting rare foods, products and animals for years through its Ark of Taste. Luckily, some skills and foods have also been kept alive by small communities or a few producers.
Chris Battle from Keighley in West Yorkshire has been curing meat for more than 50 years. He now hand-cures the York ham for Booths, each one taking three months.
"Over the years I have developed something I am so proud of. I have always had lots of local customers, but I want the food in supermarkets. I want as many people as possible to taste it because it's proper food."
Smaller producers are confronted with a series of problems when trying to get their food into larger stores.
"It's extremely difficult to even get that first meeting with buyers from the big supermarkets," says Irene Bocchetta, protected food names manager at ADAS, the body responsible for handling UK applications for schemes like PDO.
"But things are changing. Supermarkets are thinking differently and no longer have such a blanket approach to things. It's now OK if a small company can only produce stock for five shops and not the entire nationwide network of stores. They have started putting the product just in those five shops. It's like people have finally started waking up and understanding the issues."
Traditionally, there has also been little financial support for small retailers. It is available but very piecemeal, say those in the food industry.
Jersey black butter is one local product that has successfully expanded. Not produced on such a commercial scale before, it is now stocked in Waitrose and 60 shops in the UK. Fortnum and Mason even stocks it.
A traditional delicacy of the island, the jammy conserve is made from apples cooked down with black treacle, liquorice, cider, brown sugar and spices. Recipes date back to the 1400s.
Tim Crowley, managing director of the La Mare Wine Estate in Jersey where it is made, says he now sells up to 90,000 jars a year and has a growing international market.
"We've taken something that hasn't existed commercially before and put it on shop shelves, not only in Jersey but much further afield," he says.
"It's a product with so much history, but we have made it in a modern way. The key is it still tastes exactly the same as the traditional stuff. You can't lose the soul of the product in the modern process."
It took hard work, he says. An important part was making it economically viable for everyone - himself, retailers and the customer. It's the same for all such foods.
"These products will live and die by their quality and price," says Dee. "They're not excessive in price, more like supermarket's premium range, but they taste so much better."
The products are now starting to be introduced into Booths stores. The fresh-blood black pudding is still a work in progress, but it will come.
"This is where a degree of northern belligerence comes into it," says Dee. "We just don't see why we can't have these products on our shelves, whatever laws have changed since they were last around."
What forgotten food would you like to see back on the supermarket shelf?
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Monday 12 March 2012
Forgotten foods: Getting them back on the table
Immigration Arrests Suspected Human Trafficker with Children
Officials of Immigration Department and NDLEA in Adamawa have arrested a suspected human trafficker, Mallam Yusuf Abubakar, and his wife with 24 children during a joint patrol.
Parading the suspects and the children shortly before they were handed over to the National Agency for the Prohibition of Traffic in Persons and Other Related Matters (NAPTIP) on Tuesday in Yola, the Adamawa Comptroller of Immigration, Alhaji Yunusa Lerama, said the suspects were intercepted in Numan town on their way to Taraba from Kano.
According to News Agency of Nigeria (NAN) report, Lerema said the suspects were transporting the children, aged between 12 to 15 years, to Taraba to be engaged for child labour.
I am happy at QPR—Taiwo
Taye Taiwo has expressed his happiness with life at Queens Park Rangers and is not paying much attention to reports linking him with a move to Tottenham.
Taiwo made the switch to Loftus Road on loan from AC Milan in January and has previously claimed that QPR are keen to make the arrangement permanent.
He has settled in well at his new club and is enjoying the opportunity to play more regularly, having fallen down the pecking order at the San Siro.
Reports have suggested that the 26-year-old would like to stay in England, and specifically London, and he has been connected with QPR’s capital rivals Spurs.
Taiwo is flattered by such speculation but says interested suitors will have to speak to Milan to sort out a deal.
“I am liking life in London to be honest and I am playing week in, week out here and love that,” the Nigeria international is quoted as saying.
“Being linked with Tottenham? If it is true it is fine, I have been linked with them before.
“I belong to Milan so if a club is interested they know what to do.”
How Boko Haram Beats Security in Nigeria
Suicide bombers beat security checkpoints because they are usually well-dressed and in clean cars, security sources said yesterday.
It was also gathered that the bombers’ humble conduct in their cars makes it difficult for the military and security agents to detect them.
But security agencies have mapped out strategies to curtail the rising wave of suicide bombing.
A source, who spoke on the challenges facing security agencies in Jos and other parts of the country where suicide bombings have taken place, said: “From intelligence analysis so far, these suicide bombers beat security posts because they are usually well-dressed in clean cars, such that those at checkpoints assume that they were decent gentlemen going to churches or office.
“They have been disguising to attack targets in Jos, in particular. If you will recall, the suicide bomber that struck at St. Theresa’s Church, Madalla, Niger State, came in a neat Honda car with the air conditioners on. Even when he was flagged down by policemen and church security workers, he refused to wind down his side glass to listen to directive.
“All cars engaged for suicide bombings so far were newly bought. People tend to blame the military and security agencies but the methods adopted by these suicide bombers have made their detection difficult.
“Sometimes, the suicide bombers might subject themselves to routine sight and seen checks without any inkling that they are on deadly mission.
“The military and security agents have also been very careful not to shoot or attack innocent Nigerians in error. Again, terrorism is new in this country, we are learning fast to cope with the challenges of this crime.
“Even at that, the military and security agencies have succeeded in preventing many bomb explosions in some parts of the country. But to avoid panic, it is not every time it is made public.”
Passengers Stranded, Flights Delayed as Darkness Envelops Lagos Airport
Crowds of passengers that massed at the entrance of central security search indicated that something was gravely wrong as one entered the international terminal of the Murtala Mohammed International Airport, Lagos Sunday.
This, however, occurred on a day another power outage which lasted for several hours paralysed activities at the terminal.
The passengers who were supposed to have departed to their various destinations could not be checked by security operatives because the x-ray machines and body scanners were not working.
Airlines were having difficulty trying to check in passengers with limited power supply from auxiliary sources, including the use of torchlight.
Passengers arriving and departing the airport were thrown into unnecessary suffocation at the immigration areas, the check-in area and the airline counters.
THISDAY learnt that power supply to the airport had been irregular for over a week while the Federal Airports Authority of Nigeria (FAAN) was yet to provide solution to the problem..
Airline staff who profiled the passengers had to switch on their torch lights and cell phones for them to be able to profile them, while the immigration officers, security agents, National Drug Law Enforcement Agency (NDLEA) and men of the Nigerian Customs Services (NCS) had to device ways to solve the problem.
However, power supply to the airport was restored around 7p.m. to the relief of the airlines staff, passengers and security operatives.
Despite the restoration of the power supply to the terminal, the industrial air conditioning systems attached to strategic places at the airport were not functioning.
Some of the passengers spoken with, decried their experiences at the airport, saying that despite being a hub, most of the facilities, which would have made it functional were still lacking.
They, however, challenged FAAN to put the facilities in place and save the country of embarrassment.
MAGIC KAY GLOBAL SERVICES: We share everything, except men – Oshadipe twins
MAGIC KAY GLOBAL SERVICES: We share everything, except men – Oshadipe twins: The Oshadipe twins need no introduction. They have been around in the music industry for a while . In this interview, the twins who ar...
We share everything, except men – Oshadipe twins
The Oshadipe twins need no introduction. They have been around in the music industry for a while . In this interview, the twins who are graduates of English Language and Literature from the University of Lagos, open up on the interesting lifestyle they share together as twins.
What is the special thing in being a twin?
Kehinde: Sometimes, we fall in love with the same man. But we have a way of letting one person have the upper hand.
Strange isn’t it?
Yes it is. Because it’s not right in the kind of society we find ourselves in (two sister marrying same man), we have a way of allowing one person have the upper hand.
So what if it’s you that falls in love with the man. What will you do?
Nothing. If she wants the man, I’ll take my chances and let her have the man. And if her feelings and reason are more genuine for the guy than mine, I’ll understand. But if I really want the man, I think she’ll understand my feelings too and let go.
Have you ever fallen in love with a man your sister loves?
Taiwo; Yes. It has happened before.
Breaking News:Gunmen attack Police station in Kano
KANO -Several Police officers on duty at Mandawari station located within the precinct of the Emir of Kano ‘s palace were feared injured during a rush hour attack by unknown gunmen, Monday morning.
Eyewitnesses said the gunmen had arrived on motocyles at about 7.42 am and launched an attack on the station causing pandemonium among residents.
Mandawari station had been the target of several attacks by unknown gunmen in the last couple of weeks.
JTF had since cordoned off the area and are combing it for possible arrest of suspects.
Kano witnessed a similar attack last Friday when unknown gunmen attacked Rijiyar’zaki police station where one Ali Sadiq was shot dead in a cross fire.
The police Image maker in Kano, Magaji Musa Majia has confirmed the incident.
Don’t despair, Jonathan tells Nigerians
THE President yesterday condemned the suicide bombing in Jos.
He urged Nigerians’ not to be discouraged, in a statement by his spokesman Reuben Abati. The statement reads:
“President Jonathan conveys his sincerest and heartfelt commiserations to the families of the victims of the bomb attack earlier today on the St. Finbarr’s Catholic Church, Jos as well as the entire congregation of the Church and the government and people of Plateau State.
“President Jonathan reiterates his Administration’s total condemnation of this and all other terrorist attacks on innocent Nigerians and reassures all Nigerians and friends of the country that the Federal Government is doing everything possible to end the spate of mindless attacks and killings in parts of the country.
VARANE PLAYS DOWN ZIDANE COMPARISON
RAPHAEL VARANE has expressed his embarrassment at claims that he could become just as much of a legend with Real Madrid as his compatriot Zinedine Zidane.
The France Under-21 international only arrived in the Spanish capital from Lens last summer but he is already being tipped for greatness after impressing during his six La Liga appearances to date for Los Blancos.
MAGIC KAY GLOBAL SERVICES: Barca coach hits back at Mourinho claims
MAGIC KAY GLOBAL SERVICES: Barca coach hits back at Mourinho claims: MADRID (AFP) – Barcelona coach Pep Guardiola on Saturday responded angrily to comments made by Real Madrid counterpart Jose Mourinho a day...
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